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In 1872, Harry and Max Hart, German immigrants who arrived in Chicago as boys 14 years earlier, founded Harry Hart & Bro., a small men's clothing store on State Street. By the beginning of the twentieth century, it owned dozens of small garment factories-identified by many observers as "sweatshops"-around the city; about two-thirds of its several thousand employees were foreign-born men and women. Within three weeks, about 40,000 Chicago garment workers went on strike.

In 1910, when its annual sales were roughly $15 million, the company became a target of one of the biggest strikes in Chicago.

By the beginning of the century, Hartmarx was a leading men's clothing wholesaler, with over $600 million in annual sales to department stores, catalog companies, and other retailers; its headquarters remained in Chicago, where it employed about 1,000 people. Justice Department regulators from buying any more men's clothing stores, its sales grew slowly, from $360 million a year to $630 million a year.

By this time, the company not only sold clothing but also employed dozens of women around the city to manufacture close to $1 million worth of garments a year. In 1911, Hart, Schaffner & Marx became one of the first companies to settle with the workers when it signed a collective bargaining agreement that was one of the most comprehensive ever to occur in the clothing industry; by 1915, the majority of the company's employees were members of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, a new union that was an outgrowth of the Chicago strikes.